Tuesday, January 23, 2007

A trip to the hospital, and more...


Sorry it's been so long since the last post. Unfortunately, 10 days ago I was diagnosed with malaria (again!) as well as a stomach parasite. I'd been feeling rundown, and had some internal (aargh) issues. i went to the small Hindu Hospital, and the doctor put me on an IV drip for the day. I had 7 different bags of medicine, and was sent home with 10 pills to take each day. Not exactly how I like to spend my time!

At any rate, I've recovered from my illness, and hope I can avoid a third bout with the pesky malaria. The hospital is small, and somewhat rough around the edges, but we received fine care. Needles and tubes are new, and the nurses did a great job putting the IV in. However, you know you're in Africa when you have geckos and ants running amok in your room. We lost power several times during the 12 hours I was there, so they would simply bring a kerosene lantern in!

We've started teaching at a new orphanage, and it's been a fun change from the more serious schooling that takes place at the Hisani orphanage. The Watoto orphanage is run in a more family friendly manner, and the kids receive (and give) much more affection. So far this week I've taught the little nursery school kids, and standard one. They are delightful and funny, and so excited to learn. When I pulled out my copy of Animalia (a great kids book) they literally screamed with excitement over a new book.

This last Saturday, I had the privilege of going to dinner with a local friend at his families' house. They live across the bay from Mwanza, high up on a rocky hill. We had a delicious, simple meal of Tilapia and rice. After dinner Mboka (my friend), his friend Zach, his brothers and myself all hiked up a bit further to sit on a rock and watch the sunset. I was the only Mzungu (white person) some of the children near his home had seen, and they kept pointing and waving at me. There were wild monkeys in the area as well. It was a spectacular night.

On Sunday my housemate Katie & I attended the local church with our friends Nelson and Furaha. They are local guys in Buswelu (our village) who we've gotten to know through previous volunteers. Church was long (3 hours!) but quite moving with amazing singing. As special guests, we enjoyed a lunch at the reverend's house. Moments like this keep making my trip better & better, and I realize I will have a very hard time leaving my new friends.

I've ordered a photo disc, which should be ready in two days. Next posting will have pictures!

Sunday, January 14, 2007

Halfway there!

This weekend marks the halfway point for my volunteer work in Mwanza. I really can't believe how fast the time has gone by. We have now said goodbye to the two volunteers on the previous team, and have welcomed four new volunteers (all women) to the compound.

This week also marks a change in teaching for us. As of Monday,we will be teaching at two orphanages, Hisani & Watoto. The Watoto children do not know much English, so the teaching will be more basic, and focused on language and vocabulary. They are quite lovely children, and I'm really looking forward to the change.

Of course, it is hard to step away from the Hisani children. I've tried to explain to them that each week they will have different teachers, but they don't quite understand why some of us will leave for a week,then come back. As we are the first team to teach at both, the burden falls to us to try and "make it work". Having only rudimentary guidance from our organization, this has been challenging (to say the least). I'm trying to just take a breath, and hope that we can figure out this process.

As in Romania, when the administrative side of things proves problematic, I need to head to the children. They always make you feel better. There are a few older kids at Hisani who I've really started to bond with. Eric is about 12 or so, and is always happy to engage in a game or book with me. He's very bright, and I told him the other day that I know he will be a big success.He replied that he would like that, and will try really hard.

I always try to compliment the children (not superficially) but to remind them that they are special, talented, and beautiful. Unfortunately, the local staff at Hisani are not overly kind or demonstrative with affection. I've seen that the children really need to hear positive comments, and are very happy to receive hugs. I do think it confuses them because only the volunteers seem to show this. I have visited other orphanages, and I know that the leadership does not need to be this way. It's something I will address at the end of my trip.

Joyless is a girl in Standard 3, about 10 years old. She is somewhat solemn and serious. Whenever I see her, I put my arm around her and say "how is lovely Joyless today?" Initially, she somewhat bristled, but the other day when I hugged her, she leaned into me and gave me a big smile. More than teaching Math or English, it is these moments that give me strength and keep me going, especially when other systems are seemingly not working.

Sunday, January 7, 2007

Daladalas and more excitement

The daladalas are a continuous source of laughter, frustration and fear for us volunteers in Mwanza. The daladala is a minibus, and besides walking, is the primary source of transportation here. Imagine an old van circa 1980 something. Now imagine that van stripped of all interior parts, save for a dingy upholstered ceiling and three rows of bench seating covered in vinyl.

Now imagine cramming around 32 strangers in the van with you, and that is a typical daladala experience. The roads (well trails almost) are incredibly bumpy, and I have thought I would lose a kidney on more than one occasion. With the average temp being around 82 degrees, you also get the joy of completely sticking to your vinyl seat. When you get out 30 minutes later, your clothes are wet, your nerves raw.

Most of the time it's a great experience. You live like the locals, visit with them, and save money as the daladala is about $0.35. (A taxi would be $5.00) Last week we ended up on the bad daladala, with a driver who is notorious for being drunk. Once we got off the village roads, and got to the highway that leads to town, he drove at breakneck speeds and we came about3 feet away from going head on with a large semi truck. There were two terrified women with babies, and all the passengers were yelling at the driver, who only drove faster. Tom, one of our volunteers, yelled at him to pull over, and we got off on the side of the road. I've never been so glad to escape a vehicle in my life.

In other news this week, I've got a few more local friends, and it's nice to feel like you're more a member of the community, and less of an outsider. I've received my second marriage proposal since coming to Africa. Unfortunately, they seem to come from men who have just met you and have a sign from God, or in a dream, that they should marry you. They seem genuinely surprised when the answer is no!

Monday, January 1, 2007

Happy New Year

A year ago I hadn't even begun to hatch my plan for volunteer work in Africa. Now, I've celebrated a New Year here. Amazing how life can change.

The last week was quite enjoyable, as we finished Christmas celebrations and began to get ready for the New Year. As a treat for the kids, our team took them to Tunza Beach on Saturday. We hired two daladalas, and picked the kids up in the early afternoon for a day at the beach on the shores of Lake Victoria. Even though it was slightly rainy, that did not dampen their enthusiasm for swimming. I've never seen such an excited group of kids in my life.

After swimming, we tried to teach them volleyball (to mediocre success) and then bought all the kids sodas and chips (french fries). It was a fantastic day, and for those who have donated money, you will be happy to know that is one of many things you have helped finance.

New Year's eve found most folks at a party at the Hotel Tilapia, a somewhat posh (by Africa standards) hotel on the shores of the lake. We had a great meal, danced and enjoyed the company of people from every continent, except Antarctica.

I had a unique experience yesterday, being invited to the home of a local girl named Sarah William. She has just finished secondary school, and wants to have English friends. She wrote me a shy letter about 10 days ago, and we finally managed to catch up with each other yesterday. She sent her niece to fetch me, and I walked about a mile with her to Sarah's home. The whole family (minus Dad who was working) turned out to meet and welcome the Mzungu (white person). I looked at about 100 photos of the family, and then was treated to a meal of beef and cooking bananas. It was quite a treat to be taken in at their home, and next weekend I will return the favor by taking Sarah to lunch with me in town.

The amazing experiences continue...

Thursday, December 28, 2006

Christmas in Mwanza

Am now fully recovered from Malaria, and life has definitely taken a turn for the better. It's amazing how good health can change everything.

Christmas with the children at Hisani was absolutely wonderful. We arrived at the compound at 9:00 in the morning, and helped give out their Christmas breakfast treat, which was hot tea and ample fried pasty triangles. All the kids had new t-shirts to wear too.

We all walked to the nearby Catholic church for Christmas Day mass. My heart was warmed when one of the older Standard 3 boys held my hand the whole way. His friends teased him, but he steadfastedly refused to let go. His name is Godfrey, although we call him Kulwa. The love of kids is just wonderful.

After mass, we went back to Hisani were the children had a huge Christmas lunch with rice, beans, vegetables, fruit, chicken, sweet potatoes and a whole bottle of soda.
After lunch, we gave out their presents of candy, snacks, pencils, stickers, and cards. I think every child ate every piece of candy that day! Later, we put on music and had a big dance party with the children. It was so much fun.

That night a group of volunteers went to Tunza Lodge, on the shores of Lake Victoria, for our own celebration. We had a great meal, played pool, and reveled in the fact that we're in Africa for the holidays. We're taking the children there on Saturday for a special beach outing. They can swim, play volleyball, build sand castles, and generally have a good time. We will buy them sodas and chips (french fries) as a treat too.

As I come close to marking one month in Africa, I'm beginning to see how impossible it will be to leave this place. I'm always dirty, there are always bugs. mice, and constant stares, and yet I feel very content and happy. Live for the moment!!!

Saturday, December 23, 2006

Sickness, unfortunately...

Sorry it's been so long since the last post. Much has transpired in the last week.

The end of the first week of teaching went quite well. The Standard 3 kids are so sharp, and all scored very well on their quiz on Friday. I'm impressed with how well they know and understand geography. Friday was an adventure for me too! It is grasshopper season in Mwanza, and the kids catch them by the handfull. They kept trying to put them down the back of our shirts, and quite often succeeded.

Anyway, they are for eating here, and after the girls pluck the legs and wings off, they saute them up in a giant pot over the fire. Yours truly decided that she needed this experience, and so I ate one - and even chewed it. It wasn't really that bad, but i didn't like the fact that it still had its eyeballs.

The weekend was fun, as there were two new volunteers arrived from Spain, working at a neighboring orphanage. We've got quite the international contingency, and it's a real treat right now to have some girlfriends to chum around with and talk to.

Monday of this last week (the 18th) I woke up feeling lethargic, feverish, and with a rather rumbly tummy. I got worse over the day, and Katy (a volunteer here with Hisani) was ill too. Tuesday we decided to go to Hindi Hospital (the private hospital here in town) and get tested. Lo & behold, a moderate strain of malaria in both of us. Thus we were housebound and sick for this whole week. That is why you have not heard from me in so long.

The hospital is an experience unto itself. Cement floors, open to the outside, people sitting around everywhere waiting to be seen. They keep good hygeine standards, and fresh needles, etc., when they took the blood draw. It is just so very different from home.

Today is Saturday the 23rd. I'm feeling better and have braved town to email, and collect some last minute items for Christmas this weekend. We've cobbled together sweets, school supplies, stickers and toothbrushes for the kids. There are also some Lion's Club toys that they should be receiving. I will email next week to tell you how those tidings went.

Folks keep asking for photos, but being quite ill this week has taken all my energy. In order to post photos, I need to bring the memory card to town, get it burned to a disc, then make sure I have a computer that is able to upload the photos. Today, it took 10 minutes just to access my blogsite. You can see why adding photos might not be the easiest thing in the world.

I hope I"m done with sickness. I was downright crabby by Friday, and insisted I go out to dinner or else I would eat someone's hand for my meal. The doctor insists we have no meat or dairy, just bread and rice. Well, when you've got an allergy to wheat, that doesn't leave many choices!

Africa continues to fascinate me, and sometimes sadden me. The kids are lovely, and I am becoming more attached to them. The neighbor kids are wonderful too. Always they cry "Mzungu" (white person) and come ripping up our road to hold our hands for a walk. Most people are very friendly; lots of people want money. The money that was so kindly donated is of course earmarked for the kids at Hisani and Watoto. However, I will also be making a donation to the local street kids center. They sleep on the sidewalks during the day (too dangerous to do that at night) and prowl around at night. They seem to need the help most of all.

By the way, I would relish any letters or cards from home. Email is great, but not very personal. If you wish to write, please send letters to:

Lorna Jackson
Volunteer Africa
c/o Hisani
PO Box 1817
Mwanza, Tanzania
East Africa

I'm here until February 24th, and mail takes about 2-3 weeks from home. Just be sure to send by early February (at the latest).

I wish my dear friends a very Merry Christmas. As always, thanks for reading and keep the good thoughts coming.

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

First few days of teaching...

Teaching:

We started our teaching duties on Monday. I was assigned Standard 0 (little 5-6 year olds) for morning lessons; Standard 3 (about 9-10) in the afternoon. My first morning with the little ones was a nightmare! We had moved to a covered classroom to keep out of the sun, but that only increased bad behavior from the little ones. Every time I turned my back, they were chasing each other, slapping each other, or trying to ride each other. Marwa, our boy with polio, is in Standard 0. As I did not know the routine with him (they forgot to tell me) he did not get to the toilet in time, and so he started sobbing after he peed his pants. Two other kids hit each other, and all the while I'm trying to gamely teach them body parts in English. It was exhausting, frustrating, and of course I felt awful about Marwa.

Thankfully, these last two days have been decidedly better. I lesson plan at night, and find that the extra time then is well worth a more organized day following. Right now were working on basic math in Standard 0, and fractions and world geography in Standard 3. Next week I will get new classes. We all end up teaching all the standards once or twice in the 11 weeks that we are here teaching.

The Orphanage:

Hisani is about 1/2 acre of land or so. There is a main building with a living type room, and dorms for the kids. The bunks are handmade, stacked 3 high. They sleep two or three children per bed. Most kids have a couple changes of clothes, and maybe a pair of shoes. They have a squat toilet inside, and two outhouses. They are building a showerhouse, but right now they just scrub in a bucket in the courtyard. The children eat porridge, ugali (a Tanzanian dish, basically a cornmeal type stew), and then they get some vegetables and fruit. They are very sweet (most of them) and have the best smiles in the world. Their life is not easy, but I don't know if they know this.

The volunteer compound:

We actually have quite a nice house, by local standards. We do have running water (no hot) and get electricity a couple times a day for a few hours at a time. We have some tatty old furniture, and a hodge-podge of eating utensils/cooking ware. Enough to get by.

The bugs continue to vex me. Last night we waged war on 2 giant cockroaches. I swear they hissed at us, and were stubbornly defiant when Tom bashed them with a magazine. After he severed one, the leg kept twitching. I yelled so loud, our Masai guard (whose name is Jackson!) came running in, spear in hand, to make sure everything was okay. When I finally went to bed, I was woken up out of dead sleep to a mouse making noise in my cupboard.

We eat fairly well, and drink bottled water. We have a girl who will cook for us a few nights a week, and the food is quite good: rice, beans, cooking bananas, sweet potatoes, cabbage, maybe some eggplant. Breakfast is usually bread or fruit, and lunch is whatever you can forage.

I feel tired and lethargic all the time, but I blame that primarily on the heat, and the incredible amount of mental and physical energy it takes to accomplish things around here. Walking to Hisani is a feat unto itself. A little over a mile, often in sandy and muddy conditions. It's lovely though, little kids running everywhere, people carrying things on their heads, bicycles etc. It's actually quite rural and peaceful up in our village, compared to the relative city frenzy of Mwanza.

More soon.